Gräfenstein
Gräfenstein was possibly built around the year 1200 at the old border of the bishoprics Speyer, Worms and Metz. The upper castle which was built on a 12 metres high rock plateau is the oldest part of the oval defence installation. It is possible that this is the same castle that is mentionend for the first time, in a Leinigen document of division, as castrum Grebinstein. Due to this division the castle and its sovereignty went to the older lineage of the counts of Leiningen. They built an extensive southern lower castle in the years that proceeded 1250.
The counts of Leiningen assigned the administration of the castle and its region to a public servant who was called the Viztum, from vicedominus, governor replacing the sovereign. He had his official seat at the castle.The counts of Leiningen did not enjoy their unrestricted income from the castle and the office of Gräfenstein for a long time. Permanent financial problems forced them to use the castle and the sovereignty rights as collateral to raise money.
In 1317 the castle was taken by the counts of Leiningen-Dagsburg, another lineage of counts, which did not put an end to the financial problems of the castle. In 1367 Friedrich V. of Leiningen-Dagsburg was forced to sell 7/8 of the castle and its sovereignty to Elector Ruprecht I. of the Pfalz.
In the following years the Kurpfalz tried to acquire the remaining eighth to secure themselves the important right of entry to the castle.
The Kurpfalz as well as the counts of Leiningen realised that the castle was a functional property, it is therefore not surprising that the shares were passed to the counts of Sponheim, in 1371, Hanemann of Sickingen, in 1393, the margraves of Baden, in 1420, and in 1421 through mariage to the counts of Leiningen-Hardenburg.
Although this Leiningen family branch, who had the sovereignty, expanded and fortified the northern lower castle as well as the bailey and gate installations, the Alsatian Kolbenhaufen succeeded during the Peasants’ War in 1525 to conquer the castle. The peasant troops reduced Gräfenstein to ashes. Ten years later the castle was acquired by Count Palatine Ruprecht of Zweibrücken-Veldenz for the sum of 9000 Gulden who started large reconstruction work. After his death in 1544 the furnishings were taken to Lauterecken. The empty castle and its office was again placed under administration. Between 1560 and 1570 the continuous change of owners stopped when the Margraviate of Baden-Baden or rather of Baden-Durlach took the sovereignty.
This situation lasted only a brief time as during the 30 Year War, in 1635, the castle went up in flames. The ruin and its administration remained with Baden until the French Revolution. Gräfenstein, now known as “Merzalber Palace” underwent a slow decay which was halted in 1909/10 by repair works, followed by renovations in 1936/37 and 1985/86.
